We are getting a great mix of culture, politics and social issues here in Rome. Which is a good thing because it’s very hard to not just want to be a tourist and take in the antiquities, drink wine and eat pasta and pizza all day. Somehow though, we have managed to do a little of all that in just 2 days, and I even got to watch a football game – Italy and Real Madrid from a small bar while eating an incredible pizza. When Rome won, we were cheering along with the locals!
We have had two dinners with alumni from GMF (German Marshall Fund) which is one of my favorite aspects of this Fellowship. There’s nothing like meeting local folks who not only want to talk politics and welcome you to their country, but they have also been in the US on the same program and have plenty of stories of their own to share. Today, we met with the Vice President of Foreign Affairs and toured parliament (incredible architecture, the “new” wing was added on in 1650). Yesterday, we tasted wine at the oldest estate in the country (where they also happen to make an incredible olive oil – the best I’ve ever had) and toured RAI TV, the state-run channels.
We also visited the 6-month old contemporary art museum. It sounded a bit strange when I saw on the agenda that we would tour modern art in this town, especially since our hotel is literally one block from the Pantheon, but I learned it is part of the story. Italy is busily re-claiming old buildings and re-purposing them for modern activities; the museum are all government owned as are all the antiquities. I also learned today that Italy has 75% of the UNESCO sites in the world.
A highlight for me was an opportunity to have lunch at a family shelter for domestic violence victims. I ate Palestinian food while hearing stories from women from around the world. The nonprofit I visited was unique in a few ways, one of which was they aren’t associated with the Catholic church. Instead they focus on the empowerment of women and put violence issues in the context of larger societal challenges such as the sex trade and human trafficking. They also often employ the very women who have been through the program. One of this NGO’s programs is in Palestine and the woman I met was here because she had literally snuck another woman out of the country to receive medical assistance in Italy. The victim is a Bedouin woman who fell in love with a Christian; when the men in her family found out, one held her down while the other shot her.
Italy is also campaigning for a moratorium on abortion, which has been legal here since the 70s. A small faction in the parliament is fighting for this but apparently the women of Rome are protesting. I heard about a case in Naples where a woman had an abortion and just minutes later while still at the medical facility, a policeman entered her room and interrogated her. Apparently this has been in the news. I’ve been surprised to learn the role of women in this country, especially compared to Denmark where the majority work and they really feel they have equal rights (short of some disparities in compensation). In Italy, only 30% of women work. I think I am finely adjusting to the machismo of Italy. It’s hard to get a word in often, but it’s entertaining to watch the men compete for the air in the room. Again, I think the style and gender roles has been particularly noticeable coming from Copenhagen where everyone is so much more reserved in general. I do believe I am for the first time appreciating that Europe is not a homogenous continent and the dangers of generalizing about such diverse nations.
All for now, off to have dinner with the Pope!
Pantheon -- just one block from our hotel.
Smart Cars everywhere.
Chestnuts roasting with the Spanish Steps in the background.
Our wonderful city coordinator, Flavia Liberati. A highlight was meeting her and going out the last night for dinner and drinks. She and her fiance, Antonio, ended up giving us a 3am tour of their favorite spots in Rome by auto.
Fellows (Tim, Natalie and Kara) and estate owner (Giovanna Triscorio) at wine tasting. They also have orchards and I tasted the best olive oil of my life!
Visit to state controlled - Radio Audizioni Italiane -- which started in 1944 under Allied pressure. Fellows Tim and Natalie behind broadcasters' desk.
Lavendar and sage at side of estate.
Giovanna and Flavio, our Rome city coordinator.
Main entry to estate.
Inside the Pantheon.
Il Tempo - NY Times of Italy
The day we arrived, two immigrants had just been arrested for plotting the death of one of the cartoonists from the infamous “Mouhamoud crisis”; and the Danish embassy in Pakistan was targeting in protest. Riots in the both Copenhagen and the 2nd largest city , Arrhus were also underway. Denmark is extremely committed to freedom of speech. And there is true clash of cultures with many of the immigrants being Islamic and the majority of Danes atheist: “the welfare state is our religion.” 
Bicycles are everywhere in Copenhagen. Unlike Brussels that I think was encouraging it but the bike lanes where nearly empty. Here in Denmark, the auto tax nears 200%, so there is tremendous incentive to go on 2 wheels. I would add I’ve never seen such nice taxis, all Mercedez with black leather seats. Why you ask? The taxi owners don’t need to pay the auto tax so I guess they feel they can splurge (and boy does the rider pay for it!). 
Spring hyacinth at a flower market; on a Friday night, the line to buy flowers was 20+ people long. 
Me with a bowl of herring. My father would have been proud. I finally tried it – loved it – and went back for more of it! I guess the true test will be if I start a holiday tradition of herring when back in Seattle. 
I was very impressed by Kirsten Brosbol, a 30-year-old parliament member of the Social Democrat Party – the very same party that founded the legendary welfare state in Denmark. We learned there are a number of young members of parliament, including one who is just 18! They see it as a civic duty I learned, most not thinking of it as a career. They also have 30% women represented within the 179 members.
Another fellow and I were invited to dinner last night at Sinne's house. She's Danish and working in Brussels. Since I was leaving for Copenhagen in the morning, when this picture was taken she had just remarked how tall I was and that I would be comfortable in Denmark where the people are typically quite tall (herself not included)! We also got to spend time with her 8 year old son, Louie, who was fun to speak French with -- when he wasn't reading Donald Duck. Louie had just returned from a ski vacation in the Alps with his father who lives in Paris. Their au pair joined us for champagne and a lovely dinner, complete with Neuhaus (Belgian) chocolates and a cheese plate, French style. I especially enjoyed the goat cheese pairing with pecans drizzled in honey. (It's true, I am not suffering one bit.)